Seventh Time’s a Charm: Touring Boston’s Arts & Culture Scene
Boston carries big-city energy: its academics are world-renowned; its sports fans are obsessive; its traffic rivals Manhattan’s; and its medical scene is responsible for innovations like anesthesia, the Human Genome Project, and the COVID-19 vaccine.
The feeling of Boston is more neighborhood-y than all that though. It is extremely walkable. Neighborhood bookstores and bakeries have lines that wrap out the door on weekends. Its city parks are well cared for, and there’s an all-around vibrancy that made my early October visit a total delight.
This was my seventh visit to Boston but I’d never truly enjoyed it before now. All my other visits were professional and being holed up at a corporate hotel or putting in long hours at an obscure conference center was never the best way to experience what makes Boston special.
I wasn’t planning to write this guide because I didn’t anticipate there’d be anything noteworthy to share. I am pleased to be wrong about that. Here is a roundup of my most memorable experiences and meals across Boston and Cambridge:
PLAY
Ghost tour / this was seasonally appropriate, but it will hold all year, as long as the weather does. Michael is an excellent orator and storyteller who builds compelling cliffhanger-driven stories throughout the walk. The tour is part history, part lore, all spooky. This was such a fun way to see the city, connect with local history, and get in an after-dinner walk. You can book a tour with Michael here.
Glass bottles placed in the window sill were once the most effective alarm system while the Boston Strangler was on the loose.
Boston Ballet / we attended their “Fall Experience” and saw the most compelling, provocative, world-class dance of our lives. So much so, we encouraged the dance lovers in our lives to “hop on the next flight!” Guest artist Akram Khan premiered Vertical Road (Reimagined), which will forever live in my psyche. I remain impressed by their curatorial and programming choices and highly recommend catching a show while you’re in town.
Boston Public Library / this library will make your architecture-loving jaw drop. There are two main areas: an original which is all stone and splendor, and a contemporary wing which houses tech and services. They are connected by a jewel box courtyard complete with a fountain and seating. It is all very poetic. Give yourself ample time to rest, relax, and enjoy this beautiful space.
Bring a book or a journal. Sip your coffee. Reflect on life. There is no more beautiful place of reprieve from the bustle of Boston than the courtyard at the Boston Public Library.
EAT
High tea at the Boston Public Library / the tower of miniature pastries and tea sandwiches was excellent and the aesthetics absolutely charming. Invite a gal pal and blow off the afternoon to dine here, then walk around the library to marvel at the marble and murals. Make sure to book ahead of time because tables and hours are limited.
Yvonne's / Plop into the velvet couches for a post-theater snack and cocktail, noir-style. Yvonne’s is open until 11 PM which is perfect for a post-ballet nosh (it’s just around the corner from the theater too). It’s vibey without being obnoxious, and while I can’t speak for its crowdedness on a weekend, midweek it was very chill and very glamorous.
Pammy’s / filed under “life’s best meals,” the atmosphere is upscale rustic and cozy and the menu is superb. Served pre-fixe style, we selected a few dishes from a set menu of seasonal vegetables, spicy pastas, cod, and tender beef. Once we added cocktails (great NA menu, by the way) and dessert (order the deconstructed cheesecake, trust me), Pammy’s could do no wrong. Michael Pollan walked in ahead of us, which is a pretty good endorsement.
Image courtesy of @pammyscambridge on Instagram
STAY
I can’t recommend hotels because I stayed with family, but I will recommend that you choose somewhere near a central T-stop. The T gets a lot of heat from locals, but it runs every 8 minutes and for that I am a huge fan. Any accommodation within a 25 minute walk of the Boston Common or Boston Public Garden is going to be a win because you’ll see and access a lot of what makes Boston special: Beacon Hill, Newbury Street, the Theater District, Chinatown, or the sleek new Seaport District. Hotel prices made my stomach drop, so I’d recommend looking into AirBnb-type stays.
Honorable Mentions go to…
The Esplanade / Spend an hour or two on a sunny day strolling along the winding esplanade watching boats sail on the Charles. The Esplanade either begins or ends on Beacon Hill’s Charles Street (depending on which direction you come at it from), which is too hectic to be enjoyable on a weekend, but really charming on a weekday. It’s quite upscale but even if you’re not trying to drop big money, it’s delightful window shopping.
Isabella Stewart Gardener / This museum was once the home of a wealthy woman who loved art and loved to collect it. Her taste was quite eccentric — she built her own castle to house her collection! My advice is to buy online for the first tickets of the day, arrive slightly before they open, then start on the top floor. Everyone else will start at the bottom so you’ll get a lot more peace if you go bottom to top. I had entire rooms to myself for a while.
View from the top floor of the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum looking into her terrarium.
The Dubliner / This pub has an Irish owner, Irish wait staff, Irish patrons, and Irish stew on the menu, which is maybe not all that unusual for Boston, but we don’t dine like this in Portland and I loved it. It’s a fall-time comfort, high-end pub food with zero pretense.
Henrietta’s Table / if you’re in Cambridge for lunch and would like to eat more nicely than an undergrad, then HT in the Charles Hotel is a no-brainer. Lunch was simple, classy, and quality. Don’t just take my word for it—Jane Fonda walked in while I enjoyed my seasonal quiche and salad.
Next time I’ll be sure not to miss….
The Museum of Fine Art / from what I hear the MFA is The Met of Boston, where a whole day may not even suffice. I didn’t have the time this trip to dedicate to it, but it’s on my bucket list for my next visit.
Dunkin Donuts / listen, I live in the Pacific Northwest and the closest I’ve come to a Dunkin Donuts is Ben Affleck memes. I’d really like to see what the hype is about.
These were my Boston highlights. What are yours?
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