A Winter Wonderland
TROMSØ
In the winter of 2021, I planned to ring in my 33rd birthday under the Northern Lights—a major bucket list item for me. Maybe you can relate?—in Tromsø, Norway. The pandemic had other ideas though…. My Tromsø trip was planned, booked, and paid for, and since I couldn’t go on it, someone should! The light may be short but the days don't have to be, so bundle up and get out there.
Life in the Arctic has always fascinated me, in part because in the Nordic regions, the Sami people have made their lives and livelihood for generations through the keeping of reindeer. Daily life is so dramatically different up north than anything I can imagine, and there’s really no better way to learn it than to live it.
STAY
Radisson Blu is a simple, central, and comfortable accommodation with picturesque harbor views. Plus it’s a central point for the aforementioned shuttles and the on-site restaurants look cozy and delightful.
EAT
My birthday dinner was planned for Emma’s Drømmekjokken (Emma’s Dream Kitchen), but Restaurant Smak was a close second. I don’t eat seafood, but if you do, then take advantage of the incredible cuisine, fresh out of the ocean. Other Norwegian favorites I encourage you to try are reindeer, brunost (brown cheese, a caramel-y goat cheese), aquavit (an anise-flavored liquor, best served very cold. Sip it, don’t shoot it.), a smørrebrod breakfast spread, and the pastries. Oh my, the pastries. Skolebrød is my personal favorite, of which I eat one a day when I’m in Norway.
DO
The Northern Lights aren't guaranteed but the best months to see them are January and February, when you’re almost certain to see them from anywhere above the Arctic Circle. If this is when you visit, then I recommend going all in for a glass igloo experience.
If you’re visiting in December, like I planned to, then plan for a 3-6 day visit to increase your chances of seeing the lights on at least one of your nights. Book a tour that includes a guide, a van, and snacks. They are, quite literally, light chasers and will drive you around in search of the ideal conditions for Northern Lights spotting.
The Tromsø Arctic Reindeer tour is a must-do. A reindeer-pulled sled takes you out to the farm, where you get to pet and hand-feed the reindeer. This is a Sami-owned and -run experience (Sami are the indigenous people of the Nordic regions), in which they teach you about the herd, Sami history, culture, and joiking. Lunch is—you guessed it—reindeer.
GETTING THERE
Trains are romantic and a popular way to travel in Norway, but a plane will be most efficient to Tromsø.
GETTING AROUND
Around Tromsø proper you can get around fine on foot (pack warm boots!). For longer trips, the tours you reserve will offer shuttle service, so save yourself the hassle of snow driving.
PACKING TIPS
Norwegians have a saying, “there is no bad weather, only bad clothing,” so pack accordingly! Your shoes should be waterproof (or at least resistent), have good tread, and be comfortable enough for walking. Hats, gloves, and a scarf are a good idea, and a long warm coat. For the intensive, out-in-the-wilderness excursions, tours typically loan you the specific gear you need to keep you comfortable and warm.
There is so much more Tromsø has to offer, from the Arctic Cathedral to whale watching (orcas and humpback whales!), and sweating it out in the sauna. Life above the Arctic circle is truly a wonderland. If you make it there before I do, please tell me all about it so I can live vicariously.
🖤